October’s Retro Cook. Madhur Jaffrey.

Amongst the legion of celebrity chefs, old and new, there must have been one or two who had a touch of stage fright at the thought of appearing in front of the TV cameras.
Not so with this month’s retro chef, Madhur Jaffrey.

She is our only retro chef to date who was an established actress well before she prepared so much as a samosa in front of her foodie audience.

Indeed, she came to the UK from Delhi when she was just nineteen to study at the prestigious Royal Academy of Music and Drama. It is said that until that point she could not cook.
However, as all students do, they learn to cook to survive, and she was no exception. Her need turned into a love of food, which she was to carry with her to the present day.

After graduation, she took to writing food articles as a means to generate an income with a growing family, alongside her acting career. Whilst this is not a film review,it would not be fair to skim over her prestigious acting career, without mentioning some of her achievements.

She was bestowed the Best Actress Award from the Berlin Film Festival in 1965 for her performance in Shakespeare Wallah, the Muse Award presented by New York Women in Film & Television in 2000, and an Honorary CBE awarded on 11 October 2004,
“In recognition of her services to cultural relations between the United Kingdom, India and the United States, through her achievements in film, television and cookery”.

Nonetheless, her knowledge as a cookery writer is what the foodie community associate with her name, so on with the show as it were.
Her arrival on the cooking was back in 1974 with the publication of her book “An Invitation To Indian Cooking”
It could not have been more timely.
Most of us had by then acquainted ourselves with the up and coming community of Asian restaurants that were tempting us with a spicy point of difference with their exotic fare.
It is probably no exaggeration to say that other than that, we had all bought dubious tins labelled “curry powder”, that when opened revealed a lurid orange melange of spices, clearly laced with an excess of turmeric and chilli powder.
This, when taken to the home kitchen was added very much like dried herbs, straight into a mixture of meat, onions, dried garlic flakes, stock, tomatoes, and the ubiquitous sultanas,banana, or tinned pineapple, depending what was to hand.
As our knowledge has increased, thanks to the wisdom of Madhur, we have learned that in its raw state, curry spices can taste acrid and thoroughly unpleasant.
She coached us through the gentle frying of spices along with garlic and onions until they mellowed to impart their subtly differing notes.
As with all things worth showcasing, the BBC were soon to pick her for a cookery show entitled Indian Cookery in 1982.

She had us dashing hither and thither sourcing new and exotic ingredients, and gaily tossing our tins of dubious curry powder into the kitchen bin.
We learned to blend garam masala, clarify butter to make ghee, and that spices could be used whole, roasted and ground at home.

Thickening sauces was no longer the domain of a packet of cornflour, but the use of yoghurt, ground onions and garlic. Coconut both grated and its milk were not confined to the dessert recipe, but were used to sweeten and contrast with the heat of the chilli and pepper in the dish.

We gradually awakened to another realisation: Our visits to to local Indian restaurant was not the food she was creating. Although perfectly enjoyable (notwithstanding the numerous pints some of may have supped prior to getting there) hers was the real deal – authentic Indian cuisine. It was a fine thing indeed.
Such was her popularity, that she has written nigh on thirty books to delight and tempt our taste buds. She has made us more adventurous with our tastes, and we have taken in her style of cooking as our own.
I don’t think she needs any more praise than that. It is the ultimate compliment.

A Selection of Madhur’s Books.

Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian Cookery

This was her book that accompanied the BBC series in 1982. It deals with the grass roots of Indian cookery, taking the reader stage by stage through the nuances and ritual of this rich cuisine. The amateur cook turns alchemist in his own kitchen following her guides to blend the perfect mix of spices for each dish. An excellent primer for a cook new to this cuisine.

For those of us who like to gaze at the finished article, the book is also available in an illustrated format, which was published at a later date.

The Essential Madhur Jaffrey.
This is for the cook who wants a flavour of this cook. It gathers together a collection of her favourite recipes. It ranges from simple, quick to prepare meals to elaborate dinner party entertaining. It also encompasses a number of regional cuisines in one volume.

Eastern Vegetarian Cooking.
In this excellent work, she widens her horizons, and gathers together a stunning array of vegetarian delights from many countries. More of a reference work,, with no illustrations, it is a bible for Asian non meat delights.

Rosamond Richardson

I love it when I have a new article published. It’s a chance to be lazy. Happy days as this month I have three articles due to be published.
So, without further ado, here is one from Flavour Magazine, a great veggie cook, Rosamond Richardson.

Retro Cooks Rosamond Richardson.

It seems that a desire to live in tune with the seasons and the availability of produce close to home has become almost a Holy Grail for the food lovers in the UK. Many influential chefs and food Tsars expound the virtue of the usage of what is fresh, local and in season. What excellent good sense. The French have been doing it forever though, and so has Rosamond Richardson.

Probably less well known by many, Rosamond Richardson wrote books that evoked the quintessential living in tune with Nature and it’s harvest.
Writing over twenty years ago, she was simply expounding the practices of generations who had lived lives in the country before her. Conserve, preserve and waste nothing, especially if it has come your way naturally. Wise words from a lady in the know.

Her career covered other areas of country crafts. Indeed she presented a BBC programme entitled Discovering Patchwork, and another called Discovering Hedgerows.
She was famous by association, working as a food consultant with Linda McCartney when she wrote her cookery books enjoyed by so many. She was commissioned by Sainsbury’s and Harrods to write for them also.

Hers was the domain of the vegetarian cook, and she produced some excellent and original recipes to bring to life what had been in the Seventies a somewhat heavy, pulse ridden and grey cuisine. Her association with Sainsbury’s proved that if you didn’t eat meat, it was still fine to pop into the local supermarket and pick up something for tea. It didn’t automatically mean that one was relinquished to the solitary “health food” shop with its dubious wares of tofu, meat substitute and dusty sacks of rice, grains and beans. Accessibility to her knowledge gave way to a healthier, happy veggie.

Cookery books of that era had a tendency to offer photographs for selected dishes only, making it difficult for the home cook to visualise the finished result of others. The shots often left something to be desired. Not so in this case. She had the vision to team up with Linda Burgess for her delightful book Alfresco Eating to produce a vibrant and exciting account of what she had conceived in her head . It looked enticing and people wanted to re-create it. I certainly did.

There have been in recent times, harsh criticisms of celebrity chefs who use food consultants on their works, almost suggesting that the bulk of the hard and thankless work has been borne by an anonymous person slaving away in the background – a bit like a scene from Charles Dickens.
I cannot agree with these sentiments, particularly when high profile chefs and food writers – Hugh Fearnely Whittingstall and Gordon Ramsay come to mind here – who are today actively crediting their collaborators on the front covers of the books they write.
It is no crime for someone lesser known to work with the Great and the Foodie Good to produce something for the public to enjoy. I strongly suspect that no the food consultants are forced into it – no doubt they enjoy the experience or they would not do it. Rosamond Richardson was accomplished in her own right, had appeared on TV and was an author of many credible books, both cookery and otherwise. She had nothing to prove.
Likewise, Linda McCartney was pleased to endorse her colleagues’ books with due credit and professional peer praise, describing one of them as “The ideal vegetarian cookbook, inspiring and practical” This surely leaves no doubt that a more modest aura of fame most certainly does not diminish the quality of the finished result. Try her Salade Gourmande With Sun Dried Tomato Alioli and you will see what I mean.

Country Harvest.
A compendium of countryside jewels to pore over and make. Anyone making a move out of town for the first time would benefit from the wisdom imparted here. Gluts of produce in Summer and early Autumn are turned into preserves that will delight for the entire year. The dishes and ingredients are photographed beautifully.

The Larder Shelf.
Books on thrift cooking are up there with the best sellers at the moment. For those who know that the Credit Crunch is not a breakfast cereal this little offering is crammed with tips and ideas to make the larder staples stretch effortlessly into a tasty meal.

Vegetarian Meals.
One of many food writers to produce a book for Sainsbury’s. It offers a varied selection of vegetarian meals that do not rely on specialist ingredients most of the population have never heard of.

The Great Vegetarian Cookbook / The Great Green Cookbook.
Published under different titles, this work justifiably has the word “great” incorporated into the title.
The recipes have a special creativity and flair that make them distinct from every day food. A multitude of international cuisines appear, offering a wide range of choice in the recipes. The colour very often missing from early vegetarian cooking starts to appear, lighting up mealtimes and the faces of the people who are about to eat it. Good stuff if you have a vegetarian coming around for dinner and don’t want to make them an omelette.

Alfresco.
Credited jointly with the photographer Linda Burgess , this is a coffee table cookbook par excellence. Wonderfully illustrated , it encapsulates the heady days of Summer in pictures, settings and of course food. Given that the British Summer is all too short, this book allows the reader to fully exploit every last chance make it memorable, be it with a meal, some special tableware or seasonal setting.

Friday 27th March 2009. Willie Harcourt-Cooze. “King of Chocolate”

This is a special moment. I have had an article printed in a food magazine called Flavour, which is based in the South West of Britain.It is my first ever article in print, and I am thrilled to share my foray into food writing with the electric Willie Harcourt Cooze.
My daughter Holly went to interview him recently and a few days later I received a fabulous signed photo of Willie, who wished me well in my writing endeavours. He said “If there’s a book in me, then there’s certainly one in you” What a sweetie he is! He sent loads of his wonderful chocolate as well. Cant wait to buy his book entitled “Willies Chocolate Factory Cookbook” His Channel Four Series is starting next week – don’t miss it.
So, if you fancy reading my article, here it is. It’s about Rose Elliot.

RETRO COOKS – ROSE ELLIOT.
This month introduces an insight into cookery writers who have lower profile than today’s celebrity chefs. Their contribution is a cornerstone of the British cookery we enjoy today, and their knowledge has earned the respect of home cooks and chefs alike.
“The three essential books for any student are a dictionary, a thesaurus and a Rose Elliot.” www.roseelliot.com

It is comforting to know that pre web sites, (in fact, very pre web sites) that this was my cooking mantra.

Everyone wants to be a vegetarian when they’re a student, and so did I. I wanted to fit in.
I distinctly remember my house mate Jayne preparing her first meal after we moved in. She produced a meal in a flash out of spaghetti (long stuff, wrapped in blue paper- very posh), a boiled onion and a fried egg. Having prepared a beef and kidney casserole which I reckoned would last me at least three days I felt somewhat out of place – obviously good old fashioned Welsh cooking was not the thing for life at Bristol University.

Admittedly Jayne wasn’t a vegetarian, and did cast an envious eye over my meal – we laughed at her efforts and duly shared the beef together the following evening.She was no exception though – In a house of 25 women, vegetarian creations of all kinds were on offer. Startlingly few were edible.

I duly started to browse the second hand bookshops in Clifton, and came across one or two vegetarian cookbooks – one of which was written by Rose Elliot. It was called The Bean Book.
It was a good start and I have over the years bought many of the books she has written. I was lucky enough to pick up a copy of her Complete Vegetarian Cookbook (originally published in 1985) a number of years ago, and it serves as a faithful reference for all my non meat cookery.

It is still available from specialist sellers, but it has become a bit of a collector’s item, so is quite expensive now. It is well worth the investment and I promise you that you will constantly have it open in your kitchen.

It is a compilation of her very best recipes from as early as 1967, so the book has stood the test of time – a rare thing in the maelstrom that is celebrity cookery today.

The contents are grouped in categories to include, starters, soups, snacks,main courses, puddings and baking. However, she has in depth sections on the more specific areas of vegetarian cookery ingredients – notably nuts, pulses, cereals, and of course vegetables.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of everything she writes about, but it does give a flavour of what a powerful understanding she has of the art of vegetarian cookery.

Her instructions are clear and uncomplicated and lead even the most inexperienced cook in the right direction.

I have far too many favourites from the book to mention – one of my favourite dishes (and yes, it does contain lentils) is her Lentils and Mushrooms au Gratin. It is quick, tasty and nutritious and inexpensive- you can’t really ask for any more in a dish Can you?

The Haddock, The Rose and The Bumble Bee Too.

Well, it should read “The Dimbleby Too”, but one of my favourite food writers does not have a suitably convenient surname that would afford me a snappy blog title – I simply had to improvise – badly.
Joscelyn Dimbleby is the subject of my “Retro Cooks” article for the next edition of Flavour Magazine.
It therefore follows – hopefully- to the rocket scientists amongst my modest readership that “The Rose” Elliot was the subject of last months article -
a copy of which I am eagerly awaiting from the UK.
I suppose I want to foolishly run around to friends and family and show them my efforts, a bit like a gauche child who has just received a gold star on a picture they have drawn.
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves here.
Preening over gold stars awarded for sterling effort at school is one thing, but crowing loudly about a modest piece of journalism is perhaps not playing by the accepted rules of engagement.
As I have never done it before I am unsure of the etiquette involved.
It is permissible I am sure to say that I feel happy and am surrounded by that “job well done” aura – I will omit the bit about skipping up and down on the spot-
Personal satisfaction should be guaranteed by one’s own hard efforts, but peer review and praise from an anonymous circle of critics is a bigger task to attain.
If “Success as a Writer” were a recipe I would suggest that the ingredients and method would be as follows:

INGREDIENTS

One Determined Individual
Large Doses of Hard Work
Gallons of Focus (I am an Imperial girl at heart)
Several cook books
METHOD

1.Combine all ingredients in a well equipped kitchen.
2.Add a laptop, and a generous handful books on food related subject matter
3. Allow individual to stew for several hours, reducing the amount of determination.
4. Cool down rapidly to avoid overheating.
5. Repeat this process until the required consistency is achieved.
5. Print, send and serve to appropriate individuals as desired.

Here is the article.
“To me, food means sensual, visual and oral pleasure, creativity and discovery, fun and adventure, conviviality and friendship – and, most importantly, the enjoyment of life” – Josceline Dimbleby

I first met Josceline Dimbleby in Sainsbury’s in the mid-eighties, not in person but gracing their shelves with her selection of fine cookery books.
She seemed worth a read and I used my precious staff discount vouchers to build up a modest collection of her writings. Money well spent.
My acquaintance with her culinary prowess is of many years standing, as she has a writing career spanning more than thirty years. Her career has not been confined to the domain of cook books:
Her achievements stretch to being a food and travel journalist,singer, photographer, public speaker, family biographer and contributor and presenter for television and radio. More recently she has acted as an adviser to her son Henry Dimbleby for his chain of restaurants, Leon.
It needs little elaboration to say that her high flying C.V. stands out alone, making her an obvious candidate for this piece. However, if we float gently back down to earth, we can see that on a grass roots level, she is a fine cook, and has an extraordinary talent for presenting this in the written word..
It is never easy to pin down exactly why you favour one particular food writer over another, or what it is you like about their style. Not so with Josceline Dimbleby.
Hers is the influence of the truly cosmopolitan eating tradition. Her childhood was punctuated with world wide travel and her recipes are ahead of their time when it comes to exploding the global food offer into the faces of her dedicated followers.
From a very early age she had seen the sites of the Middle East and South America. She evokes recipes from the culinary delights of Syria when she was just seven. Her honeymoon was spent in Morocco, and as a newly wed, she trod unfamiliar ground with her husband in Iran. Bali, India, Burma, Vietnam and Hong Kong are but a few of the culinary pit stops she makes in her books, drawn from her vibrant memories from these far flung places.
She was the trail blazer that others have followed to augment the canon of British cooking to make it the multi cultural phenomenon it is today.
As far back as the 70’s the pages of her book “A Taste of Dreams” were crammed with exotica – okra, nettles, fresh coriander, orange flower water, and saffron. She was combining Welsh lamb with cardamom, kippers with garlic and rosewater with cottage cheese. Food wizardry that at the time was surely beyond the dreams of many home cooks.
Her recipes have endured and judging by the huge listings of her work in the collector’s book market, she will enjoy that privilege for some time to come.
Cast your eye over the books I have suggested. Buy something she has written and cook a meal to dream about. Unfortunately they cannot any longer be bought with Sainsbury’s staff discount vouchers!
Josceline’s books are still available to buy from reputable book dealers. Here is a small selection for consideration to add to your own personal collection.
A Taste of Dreams
“….the imaginative diner-party recipes are an inspiration to anyone who likes to be really creative in the kitchen” – Delia Smith

Josceline Dimbleby’s Complete Cookbook.
A compilation of recipes written for the Sunday Telegraph – worth it just for the almost surreal offering of squid in red aspic jelly called “Scarlet Hearts”!
A Traveller’s Tastes
A backpacker’s cornucopia of recipes gleaned from her extensive worldwide travels. Sainsbury’s must have wept with joy when she wrote this little gem for them – demand for rare and unusual products must have rocketed.
Curries and Oriental Cookery
Another offering from the Sainsbury Cookbook range. A neat and compact companion for the wannabe curry chef at home – Authentic tastes and consumer appreciation guaranteed.