Friday 27th March 2009. Willie Harcourt-Cooze. “King of Chocolate”

This is a special moment. I have had an article printed in a food magazine called Flavour, which is based in the South West of Britain.It is my first ever article in print, and I am thrilled to share my foray into food writing with the electric Willie Harcourt Cooze.
My daughter Holly went to interview him recently and a few days later I received a fabulous signed photo of Willie, who wished me well in my writing endeavours. He said “If there’s a book in me, then there’s certainly one in you” What a sweetie he is! He sent loads of his wonderful chocolate as well. Cant wait to buy his book entitled “Willies Chocolate Factory Cookbook” His Channel Four Series is starting next week – don’t miss it.
So, if you fancy reading my article, here it is. It’s about Rose Elliot.

RETRO COOKS – ROSE ELLIOT.
This month introduces an insight into cookery writers who have lower profile than today’s celebrity chefs. Their contribution is a cornerstone of the British cookery we enjoy today, and their knowledge has earned the respect of home cooks and chefs alike.
“The three essential books for any student are a dictionary, a thesaurus and a Rose Elliot.” www.roseelliot.com

It is comforting to know that pre web sites, (in fact, very pre web sites) that this was my cooking mantra.

Everyone wants to be a vegetarian when they’re a student, and so did I. I wanted to fit in.
I distinctly remember my house mate Jayne preparing her first meal after we moved in. She produced a meal in a flash out of spaghetti (long stuff, wrapped in blue paper- very posh), a boiled onion and a fried egg. Having prepared a beef and kidney casserole which I reckoned would last me at least three days I felt somewhat out of place – obviously good old fashioned Welsh cooking was not the thing for life at Bristol University.

Admittedly Jayne wasn’t a vegetarian, and did cast an envious eye over my meal – we laughed at her efforts and duly shared the beef together the following evening.She was no exception though – In a house of 25 women, vegetarian creations of all kinds were on offer. Startlingly few were edible.

I duly started to browse the second hand bookshops in Clifton, and came across one or two vegetarian cookbooks – one of which was written by Rose Elliot. It was called The Bean Book.
It was a good start and I have over the years bought many of the books she has written. I was lucky enough to pick up a copy of her Complete Vegetarian Cookbook (originally published in 1985) a number of years ago, and it serves as a faithful reference for all my non meat cookery.

It is still available from specialist sellers, but it has become a bit of a collector’s item, so is quite expensive now. It is well worth the investment and I promise you that you will constantly have it open in your kitchen.

It is a compilation of her very best recipes from as early as 1967, so the book has stood the test of time – a rare thing in the maelstrom that is celebrity cookery today.

The contents are grouped in categories to include, starters, soups, snacks,main courses, puddings and baking. However, she has in depth sections on the more specific areas of vegetarian cookery ingredients – notably nuts, pulses, cereals, and of course vegetables.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of everything she writes about, but it does give a flavour of what a powerful understanding she has of the art of vegetarian cookery.

Her instructions are clear and uncomplicated and lead even the most inexperienced cook in the right direction.

I have far too many favourites from the book to mention – one of my favourite dishes (and yes, it does contain lentils) is her Lentils and Mushrooms au Gratin. It is quick, tasty and nutritious and inexpensive- you can’t really ask for any more in a dish Can you?

Thursday 26th March 2009. Clock’s Ticking…………….

Time is slipping away at an alarming rate. I have just a few days to get the maelstrom that is our annual accounts into some sort of order. The kitchen table is piled high with serious pieces of paper – invoices, bank statements, pay slips, toffee wrappers…………………….I am in my usual state of denial and attempting to do every other conceivable job known to man before I settle at last to finish it off. I am a last minute girl. I will be still at it when I’m on the boat sailing towards the UK. I’ll never learn. Must dash, off to polish the the garden gnomes just one more time…………………….

Wednesday 25th March 2009. Something For The Larder.

We have a thing about preserves in our house. Everyone loves them, and I make a fair amount. They are very popular as gifts.Our French friends and neighbours are very enthusiastic about the “le chutney”. They are slowly learning how to make it from magazine recipes or from British neighbours. My closest neighbour Marie-Line (yes, she spells it that way) has taken to heating it up and serving it with meats of all descriptions – I suppose as a type of sweet and sour sauce. I can’t say I have copied her example, but it is well received by her family.
Sadly, we have run dry of all supplies – there is nothing left in the larder. A very sad affair.
So, I have taken to making a few things out of season – it’s amazing how you can rustle up a few ingredients to bridge the gap in the larder until Autumn arrives once again.
I bought some shallots the other day – they were reasonably priced as, let’s face it , they’re not at their best at this time of year – one or two had green shoots coming out of their tops. However, pickled in a dark and spicy vinegar they are very forgiving and quite delicious.
Here’s the recipe.
(You can scale the amounts down, but it’s never worth it – they go so quickly!)

3 kilos of shallots – peeled.
sea salt
1.5 litres of cider vinegar
0.5 litre of balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons of pickling spice – I used a mixture of peppercorns, allspice berries and coriander seeds.
6 heaped tablespoons of dark brown sugar – more if you like them sweet.
Cinnamon sticks – about a thumb’s length for each jar you fill
A few small dried chillies (optional)

METHOD
The process is a two day thing, I’m afraid.
FIRST DAY – Peel the shallots and generously sprinkle on the sea salt ( don’t use the coarse stuff as it won’t adhere to the shallots, and just fall to the bottom of the bowl. Cover and leave for 24 hours
– Add all the other ingredients, except the cinnamon sticks into a thick based saucepan. Gently bring to a boil. Cover and leave to infuse for 24 hours.
SECOND DAY. Drain the shallots in a colander and shake off any excess salt. Pack into jars, add a cinnamon stick and pour over the cooled vinegar.
Store for at least two weeks in a cool place and serve with the usual suspects – Ploughman’s, cold cuts etc.
Note – Ensure jars are clean and have been rinsed in boiling water to sterilize. I do this by standing a spoon in each jar and pouring boiling water into each jar up to the brim. Allow to stand for 5 minutes and drain on a clean cloth. Put the lids into a heatproof bowl and pour over boiling water to cover. Not very exciting reading, but necessary information)

Tuesday 24th March 2009. Living the Dream?

Saved! Today has been of the “from Hell” genre – I will spare everyone the detail. Busy, busy, busy.
I still haven’t finished, and in about an hour I will make yet another round trip to Bressuire, our nearby town for the third time today.
Anyway, enough of my banalities.
I was at a loss to write something today, and the Telegraph have printed an article I sent them recently. It’s my spin on how to set up home in another country. Have a read – see what you think.

Monday 23rd March 2009. – Widgets

Widgets. A great source of mystery to me. I have usually persuaded my husband to work the magic that is widgetry – it’s not my thing. I cook. Anyway, in a great move forward in the world of technology, I have installed the “Top Posts” and “Stats” widgets. They’re in the wrong place, and I don’t know how to work them into the right order – that’s a job for tomorrow. Anyway, over 3,500 visitors to my blog since I created it in May 2008. – I am impressed! Well done me!. Now to crack the eternal conundrum – how to increase that number – yet another job for tomorrow……………..

Sunday 22nd March – Chorizo, Sobresada and Merguez.

We had post match supper after the rugby last night. My husband in a somewhat reflective and deflated mood, whilst our guest (Big Bad Nige) ate three platefuls of food, sporting a very bright green Ireland rugby shirt. He had taken seven of his neighbours, none of whom had ever been out of France to see the Ireland France match earlier in the season. He commented that last night’s supper was a much more sedate affair than the away trip. His only observations on the occasion were it was very hard work and they really liked Guinness – They drank an awful lot of it apparently. They had started at Stanstead airport where they made the flight link – the Celtic brew had fuelled their truculent Gallic belief that the flight confirmation number on their Ryanair “ticket” was, indeed their very own reserved seat number. Not so, as all we budget travellers know – try telling that to seven drunk Frenchmen. Mais non!
Anyway back to hier soir…………………
I had done an amazing job of making the meal look rather impressive for two key reasons.
1. I had not decided what we were going to eat until half time.
2. I am the Mistress of Invention.
The meal was certainly eclectic – a hash of cuisines designed to pack a punch – taste bud recognition is much depleted after excessive alcohol I feel.
We ate patatas bravas, fresh salsa, home made krsa (North African semolina bread), calamari and alioli, and my centrepiece which comprised of fresh chorizo fried with red peppers and bananas. It was a very last minute decision on the bananas. I cannot abide waste, and I had two in my “garde manger” – meat safe – and they looked like they wouldn’t make today’s menu – I duly chopped them up with the pepper, flash fried them in a little olive oil, added the fresh chorizo and threw it into the Aga for about 40 minutes. Heaven on a plate – lots of jostling at the table to get at the pan juices – dark red and smokily delicious.
Nigel was a fan, and had never seen chorizo here to buy that was fresh – he usually opted for the dry version that is readily available.
I explained that it was possible to get it locally, along with Merguez and Sobresada. He seemed mystified on both counts, so I enlightened him
Chorizo – cured pork sausage, flavoured with pimenton and annatto – can be bought fresh and dried.
Sobresada – Similar product but sold “moist” – usually skinned and used as a pre frying addition to dishes – a bit like lardons or cubed pancetta. When cooked it “melts through” the dish, with an astounding flavour – it is known as “Sobresade” here in France.
Merguez – A very popular sausage here – of North African origin. It is spicy and hot, with a more complex range of spice notes. I buy mine here at the local Halal butcher (30 miles away!) – super fresh, quite strong tasting as they use mutton rather than lamb, so an acquired taste for some.
With warmer weather bathing our winter deadened bodies, we can but think of the BBQ season – try these and you won’t be disappointed.
As previously mentioned, try them as a substitute for lardons or pancetta to spike up your bolognese, chilli or whatever. My latest thing is to crumble a bit of sobresada into a frying pan – quickly brown if off – then pan fry a thick cod steak in the heavenly oil. Serve with some olive oil mash and a side order of vine roasted tomatoes. Bistro food at half the price.
If you feel more ambitious you could try making your own. There are excellent recipes here.
Casa Moro Cookbook. – Sam and Sam Clark (Merguez)
Meat Cookery Book – Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall (A fresh version of chorizo, that can double up as a sobresada copy)
Preserved – Johnny Acton and Nick Sandler (Chorizo) I have made this and was thrilled with my efforts – my sausage maker made its maiden voyage with this recipe. I was unable to get annatto seeds for the authentic colouring, but the taste was the real deal. Do use smoked paprika (Spanish – pimenton) as it produces the characteristic smoked flavour.

Saturday 21st March. Quick Eats – Rugby’s On.

Not a day for cooking – drinking yes, at least for some members of the household. Wales V Ireland. To show our even handed approach to our confidence of winning, we have invited Nigel, who is of Irish descent. He has brought Guinness, cakes and red wine. – Something for everyone, win or lose. Cymru am byth.

Friday 20th March 2009 – Writing Rules – OK?

Today’s blog is going to to be Twitter-like – Very short. Loads to do.
My writing habit has slowly developed, and the daily attention I give it is really paying off.
My inspiration has come from Winkler’s Writing Rules. Sound advice from Real Food Lover. Read, digest and action. Simple. That’s it.

Thursday 19th March 2009. Blogging – Putting off the Inevitable.

I had a flash of inspiration this morning – rare admittedly.
I was pondering the odds of a burglar having broken in to my unlocked office in our coach house – and having made off with my numerous plastic boxes – previously mentioned and containing my entire year’s business paperwork – thus preventing me from continuing with the annual ordeal of organising myself for my merciless accountant.
I then weighed this up against the same burglar having to make a choice between that or stealing one of my two unlocked cars on the drive – both with the keys in the ignition (Aside from my main theme , I guess you are picking up that crime is pretty non existent here)
After making my first life saving coffee of the day, I checked on both these theoretical incidents, and found that neither had occurred.
On the upside, I have still got transport to pick my husband up from the airport this Friday – on the downside, I have to get on with my paper chase game today – again.
Here’s where the inspiration came in.
I am being cajoled from all sides to “concentrate on my writing” – Top idea!
So here I am, duly doing as advised and knocking out today’s blog post – yet further and further delaying the main event.
Still though, what happens if no-one comes along to steal the precious plastic boxes……………………………….

Wednesday 18th March . A Million Thongs………….

Oh, come on. You didn’t honestly think I was about to emblazon an image of THAT on my blog! I’m not sure that my male readership is that strong at the moment.
I was merely referring to the amusing “typo” I made when e mailing someone recently. I was intending to try and break the land speed record for writing and made an error, which read “Must dash, a million thongs to do…………”
My eagle -eyed recipient was quick to point this out , but I feel this small nuance should become my mantra – I seem to spend so much of my time running around trying to do more than is humanly possible.
A friend, not known for their early rising once commented that I achieved more things while they slept in than was scientifically possible. I took that as a great compliment. (On a completely unrelated note – the French expression for lie in is “Gras Matinee” Fat Morning – How delightfully explicit!)
So what’s making me run around today?
Part of my multi tasking brief is to look after our small but perfectly formed property renovation business. I am definately the hands off type when it comes to this, but my long suffering brother in law Paul is dragging me along to the builder’s merchants at Cholet today to pay for some materials. It’s a kind of B&Q operation and it is about 50 kilometers away – suffice to say they discount everything quite heavily, but as a consequence don’t hold trade accounts, like the local ones. So, I am the cheque book of this morning’s operation – oh yes, and supplier of yummy snacks from the fabulous boulangerie next door there. My brother in law is working on a personal challenge – trying to equal the value of the materials bill with his order for the late morning snack. He’s doing rather well. (Note to self: Ensure sufficient funds in business account)
Anyway, must dash – a million……………..you know the rest…………..